How to Scale Up a Pattern the Easier Way!

In this post, I'm going to show you the way I scale up gridded patterns.  This is the method I used to make the pattern for the waistcoat, as shown.

(Warning: There is some geometry involved here, as in all pattern scaling, I've just tried to make it as easy as possible to understand)

What you need: A gridded pattern, a ruler, a pen or pencil, lots of scrap paper, an iron, tape.

Step 1:  Trace your necassary pattern pieces on a piece of paper. It doesn't have to be notebook paper, but it hepls you keep a straight line.  Then look at the scale on the pattern (in this case, I think it was 1 square equals 3 inches, we will call the side of the square N, to make the instructions simpler) and draw a grid according to that scale.  If your grid is not correct, the final pattern will either be too big or too small.

Step 2:  Prepare your pattern paper.  This can be any type of thicker paper you want. It's is a very good chance for recycling!  It is preferable to iron it on low heat and get all the wrinkles out.  It works like magic!

Step 3:  On your pattern paper, begin to form a grid.  If your paper has a 90 degree corner, it is easy to start, mark a spot N in. from the bottom of the paper on both sides and in the middle.  If your paper does not have a corner but has a straight bottom edge, measure N away from the bottom at a 90 degree angle and mark it in at least 3 places.  If you have a randomly shaped piece of paper, make a fold near the bottom or draw a line and use it as your bottom edge.

However, instead of drawing lines for the grid (which is very time-consuming), fold the paper like a fan where you would draw the line.  Run a ruler or something heavy and flat over the crease to set it in (I do not recommend using an iron at this stage, because it will get rid of all of the creases).

Continue folding, like a fan.

Once you finish going one way, start the folds going the other way, to form the grid.  The folds should be the same depth (N) going both ways, because the grid needs to be a square. 

Step 4:  Begin scaling up your pattern.  You use the creases you made to guide you, and the good thing about this method is that it takes much less time than actually drawing out a grid.  You also don't have a bunch of pencil lines going across your pattern piece.

After scaling it up, cut it out!

The finished pattern:

Front

Back

Hopefully this helps you have some more sewing creations flying off the needle this summer.  Best wishes!

Rebecca

A Summer of Sewing!

So, as I have just finished school for the year, I thought I would tell you about my summer sewing plans (In time order):

         1. A 40's/50's dance dress.

My ballroom dance class is doing "Boogie Woogie Bugle Boy", and my boyfriend and I are the youngest couple, and we are also good at tricks, so the dress I wear has certain qualifications that it has to meet in order for me to dance in it (it can't fly up too much, but the skirt has to be loose enough for movement, etc.).  Right now I only have 1 40's dress (the one I made for my sister), but it has a tighter skirt so I can't do all of the tricks in it. Therefore, I will be making a new one, which has to be my first project because the recital is in June.  

My fabric:

I am going to make a late 40's/50's style shirtdress out of this, because I've always wanted one, it will be perfect for dancing, and it is a lovely 50's teal!


2: Finish the waistcoat.
(I am making this as a gift for my boyfriend, and I'm not going to post pictures until it's done)
I have this mostly done, all I need to do is put in the pockets and sew in the lining.


3: Finish my stays.
These have to be done before I can make any more 18th century gowns, jackets, etc., because they are the foundation for the rest of my clothes.


4: Make panniers.
I am going to make the kind that have two parts, like Leomomi's.  I'll need to make panniers because me next project is...


5: A Francaise/Sacque back gown (!)
I am so excited about this one!  I can't wait to start it, which I guess is good, because hopefully it'll help me get done with the other ones faster.


My fabric:



It's a cotton "chintz" fabric with about 5 colors, which would be more expensive than just 1 color because they would have to make 5 different blocks, 1 for each color.  It was a status symbol in the same way as silk was.  There are several  extant red print gowns, many of which are cotton print.  Therefore I feel comfortable with using this fabric. 
(UPDATE: this fabric is taking FOREVER to ship, so unfortunately it may have to be moved down the list a bit if it doesn't get here before I need it.)


My inspiration for the gown:



The Mint Museum
I like this, although it is probably silk, and I don't have enough fabric to make a matching petticoat.



MFA
This gown is closer to what I want.  It is a cotton print, with sleeve ruffles, and it has a non-matching petticoat (Mine will probably be red).  I also want to include the narrow tucker around the neckline.


6: A Quarter-back gown.


My fabric:



This is a really pretty 1-color block-print cotton, in the same fabric as the one above.  I'm going to make the gown out of this, but there is so much fabric I might be able to make more things.  (It would make a nice pet-en l'air).



The Historical New England collection


I want my dress to look exactly like this one, but in red print and as an open gown/polonaise.


7. A new "nice" apron and cap
I have some linen check material that I am going to make a more stylish cap and apron, for wearing with nicer gowns, like these.


8. A petticoat that will match both gowns.
(Probably red)


(The "If I have time and/or money" category)


9. A blue linen roundgown
This will be something I can wear to my site because it's more of a working-class type gown, but it will have trimming. It will be in this linen:

       

Sphinx, by fabrics-store.com

10. A new linen shift

11. A Costume Close-up jacket

In this material:

A grey linen-cotton material with a white stripe.

Well, I think that's about the most I'll be able to do in one summer, and hopefully I'll be able to get it all done. I'll try to do better and post some dress diaries as I go along.  These are some exciting projects!

Rebecca

Busyness

So I feel like I have kinda neglected this for a little while, but once exams are over I will be back with some awesome stuff!  Because...
On cyber Monday I ordered:

• A dressform
• "Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centiry Fashion in Detail"
• "Costume Close-Up" and
• "Patterns of Fashion" (all books, and awesome ones at that!)

I can't wait to get them, even though I can't open them until next Friday. :-(
But once this semester is over, I'm going to definitely post more!
Until then!
Bye, I have a PowerPoint to do!

Rebecca