Finally Finished 1780's Stays!

Well, here they are!  I finished my new back- and front-lacing 1780's stays last week.  The pattern fits very well, and they are surprisingly comfortable most of the time.  They were originally intended to have straps, and they may one day, but I like them as they are for now (even with the little stubs, they don't get in the way that much though).  The chanels are all machine sewn, except for the first channel I did, which made me decide to use the machine!  The binding and eyelets are handsewn, however. 

Materials:

Top layer- Linen

Middle layer- Denim

Inside layer- Cotton muslin

Boning- Thin cable ties (Strategically placed, and they are definitely enough for my figure.  I tried a few larger ones, but I had issues with them twisting in the channels.  The boning was placed between the 2 inside layers, because it showed under just the top layer)

You can see how the stays have already conformed to my figure a little bit.  I have worn them for about 7-10 hours so far.

And a few shots of the inside...

I didn't take many in-progress shots, because I was sewing like mad to get them done so I could start some other projects.

Testing out the channel width and boning choice.

The two front panels, which were lonely for a few months until I felt like sewing the rest of them.

I hope you enjoyed seeing them!

Rebecca

2 finished 40's dresses:

So I was going to post sort of a dress diary on the teal 40's dress I was making, but the first week I was working on it, there were some unexpected things that led to me not feeling like it. By the time I felt like posting, the dress was almost done, so I decided to wait on it.  Well, it has now been done for several days, so I figured I would finally share the finished dress!

Here it is!

I love the way it turned out! The collar looks great, and the sleeves are perfect for dancing, because they have plenty of "give" and freedom of movement!

I am particularly proud of the sleeves, because I ended up drafting them to get them to look the way I wanted.  I was having trouble sewing the cuff on, but then I realized that the bottom of the machine comes off to make it where you can sew sleeves on it.  After I did that, it worked perfectly!

The darts turned out really well.

18 buttons in all!  This was the first time I was able to get the buttonhole function to work on my machine.

The skirt is roomy enough for dancing, but it's a really good fit for the 40's, because it's still narrow enough to be pre-New Look. 

I had to make a box pleat in the center back waist, but I like it because it adds to the shirtdress feel.

Here are some in-progress shots:

I added a lace hem facing for a luxurious touch, because to me the 40's and 50's mindset made a little bit of glamour accessible to every woman, while still being sensible.

And the hem facing sewn in (it's hard to see).

Both the hem facing and dress fabric date to the 70's, so they are vintage, just not quite as old as the dress style!

The entire dress was draped by me on my dress form.  This picture shows the left front side taking shape.  Once I had it how I wanted it, I trimmed around the edges, leaving a seam allowance, and cut a matching piece for the other side.  Believe it or not, this was the first time I had actually had to pattern match plaids.  I think it turned out pretty well!

Then I started to shape the collar.  The bottom half was in 3 pieces, and the top was 1 piece.

The back of the collar.

Sewing the collar on was the hardest part, it took a combination of machine and hand sewing, but it finally turned out looking very sharp!

While I was taking the pictures for this post, I realized that I has never officially posted the finished version of the dress I made for my sister back at the beginning of the year.  Well, it has been done for several months, and worn a few times, and here it is:

I ended up binding the edged with red bias tape, which brings out the color of the strawberries.

I had to cut the neckline a little lower than I was originally going to, because it was too small for a head to fit through!  That's kind of the purpose, isn't it?

The back looks very pretty, and I really like the way the dress turned out.  It has a very 40's character, between the print and the style, and I anticipate both it and the other dress being worn to many 40's events in the future!

Rebecca 

How to dress in the 18th century:

I am officially done with school for the semester, so Friday night I was able to open this!

"She" is almost exactly my measurements, except I can't get the hips quite large enough, but that's okay, because I don't really intend to be making pants on her (and I have two legs!).

So without further ado, my first tutorial:

DRESSING IN THE 18TH CENTURY